To sum up London Fashion Week in one sentence: it was a strong contrast between the dark romance of the Victorian era and the super-cool vibe of the 60s-70s London girl. Here are some of the shows that I thought were standouts for the F/W 16 season.
To be honest, I was tempted to skip out on mentioning any other shows and just make this post dedicated to the Alexander McQueen show. The mood, from the quirky Schiaparelli-inspired imagery to the sparkling celestial Erté-esque gowns, was like a walking dream. Creative director Sarah Burton has taken the genius of the Alexander McQueen brand into its most feminine and dreamy place, one which I think we can all be very excited about for seasons to come.
Burberry's runway show seemed to be a showcase for all things London cool. CEO and chief creative officer Christopher Bailey showed a lot of musical inspiration and an overall groovy 70s tone, accented by some Ziggy Stardust styling, military tailoring, and bohemian mixed-media layering. The wide-strapped bags and chunky ankle boots highlighted the feminine-yet-tough vibe of the collection.
Erdem Moralioglu had a distinct vision for this show: to reflect the feelings of the "brief flowering of English surrealism between the wars—a time when fear was in the air and money scarce, but glamour and brave hopes could somehow became pasted together to offer an escape route to dreams." It's no wonder that it seems so current in our tension-fueled times. Opulent textiles with glamorous notes of sequins or feathers made for a dreamy vibe, while the statement footwear and socks were among my favorite details.
The plastic, tied-under-the-chin rain hats at Christopher Kane were a tribute to his mother, who passed away a year ago, and they set the tone for his classic-with-a-twist, granny-chic collection. He was also said to be inspired by the manic trapped feeling of reclusive hoarders, and that sense of needing to edit is felt in the abundance of crochet and overflowing feather trims. The collection's intentional, out-of-the-box aesthetic, however, works to inspire, not overwhelm.
In my opinion, the Markus Lupfer girl is the one to most closely emulate this fall. From the round statement sunglasses, to the pleated lurex skirts, the embroidered dresses and blouses to the star-spangled accessories, these looks are head-to-toe the most current, most wearable, and most all-around cool.
A few more worth checking out:
The wonder-filled, more-is-more aesthetic at Mary Katrantzou.
The rock-inspired, moody romance at Preen by Thornton Brigazzi.
The wearable, all-inclusive looks at Topshop Unique for IRL wardrobe inspiration.
The artful silhouettes at Emilia Wickstead.
The lavish and quirky excellence that is Toga.
The intensely feminine and darkly poetic looks from Simone Rocha.
The ultra-rich color palette at Roksanda.
The vibrancy and "real"-ness of Marques ' Almeida.
If you would like more fashion week news, check out my favorite looks from NYFW and come back tomorrow for the recap on the Milan shows!