After several weeks of pretty obsessively consuming fashion week news, I was starting to feel a little uninterested towards Paris Fashion Week. I was pretty sure I had seen all the statements that could be made this year, but the Paris designers made it clear that there was still a lot more to be excited about. I thought these following collections were absolute standouts in vision and innovation.
I think former Vetements designer Demna Gvasalia's debut collection for Balenciaga brought a new air of excitement to the brand. With a little bit of everything- off-the-shoulder puffer jackets, giant glasses chains, stirrup pants worn over the shoe, and even candy cane prints- it is a bit overwhelming, but in the best way. It's exciting, innovative, and as Vogue referred to the collection, "spectacular" and "sensational."
There has been speculation that Karl Lagerfeld's presentation, a complete retrospective of past Chanel shows, may be a sign that he is stepping down as Creative Director. His sweeping homage to the brand is clear in the obvious nods to Coco, with the layered jewelry, impeccably coordinated accessories, and the multitude of tweed separates, particularly the gorgeous deconstructed tweed skirts. And while it does seem the perfect full-circle note to end on, it's entirely possible that the 82-year old (who claims he will never retire) was just showing a sense of humor regarding the rumors. Either way, this show served as another reminder of the power and importance the Lagerfeld/Chanel legacy.
Loewe was the show that perhaps made me feel the most happy. The handkerchief hem skirts, the bold statement jewelry (which included large cat face pendants), the bustiers acting as belts, etc. all worked to create something that seems very grown-up, very polished, yet still has plenty of ease. Graceful is the word that comes to mind.
If the Dries Van Noten girls were the cast of some dark and glamorous film, I would watch it over and over. Inspired by the affair of Marchesa Luisa Casati and the poet Gabriele D’Annunzio, the look was rich in textures and moody in palette, offset by charming pearl embellishments. Standouts for me include the faux-fur collars and feathered ruffs, the sculptural heeled footwear, and the various ways that both classic prep uniform/varsity wear and pajama dressing were incorporated.
Nicolas Ghesquière's collection for Louis Vuitton was among the most highly acclaimed shows of the season. There are more than a few references to the fashion house's past, with 90s-era slip dresses, luggage-inspired bags, and trenches that are truly innovative in silhouette. Elements that I was most excited about include the sturdy combat boots (especially the silver ones), the patent leather pants, and the t-shirt sleeved dresses and tops.
More worth checking out...
All serene at Cèline.
Poetry in fashion at Chloé.
The coolest girls at Elie Saab.
The bejeweled tapestries at Mui Mui.
The latest in sleeves at Roland Mouret.
Beautiful savages at Maison Margiela.
My heart skipped a beat for the prints and fabrics at Stella McCartney.
Ballet-inspired layers at Valentino.
Saint Laurent part two, the couture collection. Tell me these looks don't take you back to when Brenda and Kelly wore the same prom dress on 90210.